Public Consultation of Australian Abseiling and Climbing Standards

Australian AAS public consultation – Abseiling & Climbing

If you are interested to see how our Aussie counterparts gather public inputs on their Abseil and Climb standards, take a look at the link above.

Will this ever happen in Singapore?

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Invitation to SG Climbing Instructors Community of Practice (COP) #3 : “The Dilemma of Incidents”

Hi everyone,

 

I’m happy to share that the next Sport Climbing Instructors’ COP will tentatively happen in Jan 2018. For the third edition, I am happy to have the following instructors stepping forward to help put this COP together:

Fish, Joe, Ai Chin, Delson, Zedong and Mr. Hee. We had a delightful meet up recently to kickstart the planning and here are the tentative details,

 

Date : 20 Jan 2018 (Sat)

Time : Evening (6.30pm – 9.30pm)

Venue : TBC

Theme : “The Dilemma of Incidents”

 

In light of the few accidents that the team has come to hear about in the climbing community, we would like to focus the COP around the theme of safety and risk management. This COP will address topics like risk management, processes, crisis management etc. to better equip instructors with information to manage incidences in your climbing programmes. This is not going to be one of those run-of-the-mill first aid courses but instead we would like to look at the before and after of an incident so that we can better prepare instructors for it.

 

The blank sheet of paper for COP #3 now has some stuff scribbled on it but it is not inked down yet. If you have any ideas or you think you would like to contribute something for this COP, please feel free to contact us so that we do not miss out on what you can bring to the table. In the meantime, mark the date in your calendars and I will update as more details firm up.

 

Peaceful Vibes!

Adrian

PS : If you would like to receive further updates on this event, please join our contact list at https://goo.gl/forms/v355XUnhIfWyQtf22 , or you can join our event page on FB with the attached QR code.COP3QR

COP #3 Call for Volunteers!

Hi everyone,

Hope this email finds you well. It’s been awhile since the last Community Of Practice (COP) in March where we had instructors sharing on OJTs, ABDs and RP’s FYP study on the SNCS syllabus.
I am still committed to make this COP for SMF Sports Climbing Instructors a regular affair and I am aiming to organise the next one (COP #3) in late Nov/early Dec before everyone heads off for the holidays. These COPs are organised purely by volunteers who have come forward with their time to help create a platform for instructors to share so that we can grow the instructor community.
Inline images 1
COP #3 is still a blank sheet of paper as of now. Hence, this is a call out to the SMF Sports Climbing Instructors community for volunteers to help organise the third iteration of our COP.  It is with your help that will make it a reality come November.
If you would like to get involved with the planning and organising, or you have something to contribute, kindly please drop me an email at asee82@gmail.com or a message at 9474 6410 by 25 Oct 2017 (Wed). Please feel free to contact me with any questions or suggestions also and as always, please help to spread the message to your instructor friends.
Appreciate your support for the COP and i look forward to meeting up with all of you again. Please stay tuned for more details.
Regards
Adrian See
Resources
Instructor Contact List Sign Up : https://goo.gl/forms/YoMwys2gPkvhBD8z2 
Climbing Instructors COP #2 Record 19 Mar 2017 : https://tinyurl.com/ycskzoub

SNCS Level 3 Verification for Instructors

I will be conducting a SNCS Level 3 verification soon. In preparation for the course, we circulated the most updated verification syllabus amongst the instructors. Here’s a copy of it in case anyone of you need to get hold of it.

Level3instructor Verification Sheet_2014Jan

For those who want to take the verification, please note that it is a “peer” verification and not an assessment per se. So please do not treat us like assessors. We are just here like a neutral to make sure that you met the timings and all the standards before you go about conducting your courses.

Also, one thing to note is that the verifying instructor is not there to teach you how to do a counter balance abseil or how to pass a knot. The assumption here is that an instructor who wants to teach Level 3 should already have the competency to go research or figure out how the skill sets should be done. So personally for me, i am happy to share on another occasion, but not when i am a verifier.

Note also that there are many different methods to perform the two drills so there is no standard way of doing things. As long as it’s safe and you are able to achieve the objectives then we will likely sign off your forms. But please. Do not take the easy way out. I have seen instructors using brute force to transfer the victim’s weight. A day will come when you have such a heavy participant that you cannot move him physically, then you will wish you understood how to transfer the load properly. I guess the whole idea is to make sure that you can take care of your participants safely. So please don’t try to go around the system.

There. That should be all for the SNCS Syllabus. Now i wonder if the other volunteer-run webpage is updated already or not…. Maybe can just link to my webpage lah… At least instructors can still get their info.

SMF AGM on 26/7/2017

The Singapore Mountaineering Federation (SMF) Annual General Meeting (AGM) will be held on 26 July 2017.

But, the secretary has informed me that only members are allowed to attend it. I’m just putting it out here so that we know it’s happening. Members, please attend to make your voices heard. For more details, please contact the SMF Secretary.

Go figure.

SNCS Syllabus for you.

I dunno leh…. Upload one and a half pages of documents got so difficult meh? Here are the SNCS Syllabus if you can’t get them from the SMF Website. Including my copy of the SNCS Level 3 syllabus.

I don’t even know when they are “CAA” from, all i know is i downloaded the Level 1, 2 and ASC (DO WE EVEN STILL CONDUCT THIS COURSE???) from the SMF Website and the SNCS Level 3 syllabus was the one sent to me from other SMF Instructors when i asked for it.

Again this is for sharing, go make your own conclusions from how long it takes for someone to update a webpage, especially the things that the whole world needs…. ’nuff said.


Sports Climbing Level 1
Course Code: SCCL1

Course Duration: 7 hours or 2 sessions of 3.5 hours

Prerequisite: At least 13 years of age

Objectives

The purpose of this course is to give participants an enjoyable, safe and informative introduction to sport climbing. The course is designed for people with no prior knowledge of sport climbing. Participants will be introduced to: equipment, climbing techniques, checking procedures, belaying for top-roping and climbing calls.

Passing Standards

Trainees must demonstrate the following course requirements :

1. Correct harness usage

2. Correct tie-in technique using the figure-of-8 knot

3. Correct belay technique using a friction device

4. Correct use of climbing calls

5. Perform pre-climb checks

Award

SNCS Sport Climbing Level One Certificate

Syllabus

1.     Introduction to the Sport of Climbing

·      Development of climbing in Singapore

·      Concept of climbing

·      Sport climbing /Traditional climbing;

·      Lead / Top-rope;

·      Bouldering

2.     Introduction of Climbing Equipment (usage, care, limitation)

·      Ropes (Dynamic & Static)

·      Harness

·      Karabiner

·      Friction devices – (Fig.8 and Tubular)

·      Climbing shoes

·      Helmet

·      Chalk (drying agent)

·      Others – Quickdraws (Runners), Sling/Tape

3.     Tie-in Knot (usage, limitation, dressing)

·      Figure of Eight thread-through

4.     Belaying Technique (5 steps belay) using friction devices

·      Belaying a climber

·      Lowering a climber

·      Belaying stance

·      Arresting a climber’s fall

·      Rope handling & management

5.     Basic Climbing Technique

·      Use of handholds – pinch, grip, underhand, side pull, sloper, pocket

·      Use of footholds – edging, smearing

·      Basic wall configuration – corners, overhangs, slabs, roof

6.     Top-rope Climbing

·      Pre-climb checks

·      Climbing commands

·      Spotting

·      Safety considerations – pendulums, falling on other people, rope placement, buddy check

7.     Course Review

·      Suggestions for further advancement

·      General discussion and feedback

Instructor Qualification

Sport Climbing Instructor Category 1 / 2

Instructor To Trainee Ratio

1 Instructor : 10 Trainees, OR

1 Instructor + 1 Climbing Assistant (or Trainee Instructor) : 16 Trainees

Sports Climbing Level 2
Course Code: SCCL2

Course Duration: 14 hours or 2 sessions of 7 hours

Prerequisite: At least 13 years of age, Sport Climbing Course Level One certified

Objectives

This course is designed as a follow on from the Sport Climbing Course Level 1. This course builds on the top-rope skills acquired from Level One and teaches a progression into lead climbing on artificial climbing walls. Participants on this course should be confident in all the techniques covered at Level One before undertaking this more advanced level course.

 

Passing Standards

Trainees must demonstrate the following course requirements :

1. Confident with lead climbing on an easy route

2. Correct placement of protection points on a lead climb

3. Correct belaying of a lead climber using a friction device

4. Correct top-out technique on fixed anchor

5. Conduct proper pre-climb checks

6. Correct use of climbing calls

7. Safe equipment handling

Award

SNCS Sport Climbing Level Two Certificate

Syllabus

1.     Introduction to Lead Climbing

·      Top-rope Climbing vs Lead Climbing

·      Placement of protection points

·      Understanding Fall Factor and Impact Force

·      Understanding the anchor system on artificial wall

2.     Equipment Required for Lead Climbing (usage, care, limitation)

·      Dynamic rope vs Static rope

·      Harness with gear loops

·      Quickdraws (Runners)

·      Slings / Tapes (safety slings, extension as Runners)

·      Friction devices – (Fig.8, Tubular)

·      Helmet

3.     Knots (usage, limitation, dressing)

·      Double Figure of 8 knot

·      Tape knot

4.     Belaying a Lead Climber using friction devices

·      Giving slack & taking-in

·      Belaying stance

·      Arresting a climber’s fall

·      Dynamic Belaying

·      Rope handling & management

5.     Lead Climbing & Techniques

·      Pre-climb checks

·      Clipping in techniques / prevention & undo “Z” clips

·      Runners’ placement/direction

·      Climbing on overhangs & roofs

·      Safe falling position

·      Climbing commands

·      Safety considerations – hand & foot placement to avoid nasty rope burns, skipping runners, falling on a lead, buddy check

6.     Top-out Technique

7.     Course Review

·      Suggestions for further advancement

·      General discussion and feedback

Instructor Qualification

Sport Climbing Instructor Category 1 / 2

Instructor To Trainee Ratio

1 Instructor : 10 Trainees, OR

1 Instructor + 1 Climbing Assistant (or Trainee Instructor) : 16 Trainees

Note

Wearing of helmet is compulsory when engaging in a lead climbing session

Activity Supervisor Course (Sport Climbing)
Course Code: ASC

Course Duration: 21 hours or 3 sessions of 7 hours

Prerequisite: At least 18 years of age, Sport Climbing Course Level Two certified. Must be confident to lead a 5.7/5b route on an artificial climbing wall.

Objectives

This is a course designed for teachers, physical training instructors, people in-charge of climbing gyms and anyone required to supervising group climbing activities on artificial climbing walls. The course equips participants with the knowledge and skills necessary to safely supervise top-rope climbing, lead climbing and bouldering sessions. The course emphasizes on safety and organization. The course does not qualify participants to conduct formal climbing certification courses.

Passing Standards

Participants must demonstrate the following course requirements :

1. Correct use of and the ability to discern any incorrect use of climbing equipment

2. Have knowledge on safety practices in supervising:

– Top-rope & lead climbing session including belayers;

– Bouldering session with spotters and crash mats

3. Have knowledge on managing groups, organizational and communication skills

4. Understanding of risks associated with climbing and have knowledge on strategy to minimize risks

5. Ability to set up anchor system for top-rope climbing

6. Have knowledge on wall maintenance and route setting

7. Safe equipment handling

 

Award

Activity Supervisor Certificate valid for 3yrs; to be accompanied with a valid first aid (sic)

Syllabus

1.     Roles and Responsibilities of a Supervisor

2.     Revision of skills and knowledge on

·      Equipment (usage, care, maintenance, check)

·      Knots (Figure of 8: thread-through, double-bight)

·      Belaying technique (top-rope, lead)

·      Bouldering and Spotting

3.     Setting up activities for

·      Top-rope & Lead climbing

·      Bouldering

4.     Planning a session (top-rope, lead, boulder)

·      Objective of activities

·      Profile of participants

·      Site & equipment inspection

·      Level of challenges (structures, routes)

1.     (sic)Managing a session (top-rope, lead, boulder)

·      Group management (procedures, rules, processes, ratio)

·      Facilitating experiences (teaching methods, communication)

2.     Risk Analysis and Management

·      Understanding & Identifying Risks

·      Strategies to minimize risks

·      Risk assessment & management plan

·      Protocol, Guidelines, Wall Maintenance

3.     Discussion on

·      Common mistakes and incidents in climbing

·      Supervision of climbing, belayers

·      Route setting

4.     Theory Assessment

Instructor Qualification

Sport Climbing Instructor Category 2

Instructor To Trainee Ratio

1 Instructor : 8 Trainees, OR

1 Instructor + 1 Climbing Assistant (or Trainee Instructor) : 12 Trainees

Note

Wearing of helmet is compulsory when engaging in a lead climbing session

Sport Climbing Course Level Three
Course Code

SCCL3

Course Duration

14hrs or 2 sessions of 7 hrs

Pre-requisite

 At least be 16yrs of age

 Sport Climbing Course Level Two certificate or equivalent; and Abseil Proficiency Course Level One certificate or equivalent*

*This course builds on the basic skills learned in these courses. Hence, trainees should be familiar and confident with these basic skills before undertaking this course.

Objective (s)

This course introduces the techniques of climbing bolted multi-pitch routes safely.

Passing Standards

Trainees must demonstrate the following course requirements :

1. Setup anchor system for multi-pitch climb

2. Belaying a climber, using both direct (from anchor) & redirect belay system

3. Lead climb and then abseil with backup

4. Ascending on ropes

5. Conduct proper pre-climb checks

6. Use of climbing calls throughout the climb

7. Handle equipment safely

Award

SNCS Sport Climbing Level Three Certificate

Syllabus

1. Introduction to multi-pitch climbs

·      Compare man-made climbing walls with natural rock crags

·      Recognise common types of protection points used in climbing

·      Describe the concept of multi-pitch climbing

2. Introduction of Equipment for Multi-Pitch Climb

·      Revisit the use of quick-draws and dynamic ropes

·      Recognise the uses of single, half and twin ropes

·      Describe the uses of accessory cords of various diameters which include prusik knots and anchoring; and their limitations

·      Describe the uses of slings (sewn slings and tapes) which include safety slings, runners and anchoring; and their limitations

·      Recognise the range of descending/belay devices:

–       Circular descending devices (e.g. Figure-of-8, Harpoon)

–       Planular descending devices (e.g. Sticht Plate)

–       Tubular descending devices (e.g. ATC)

–       In-Line adjustable devices (e.g. Rack)

–       Auto-locking descending devices (e.g. Gri Gri, Cinch, Stop)

3. Knots & Hitches

·      Demonstrate and describe the uses and limitations of knots:

–       Double Figure of 8 knot on the bight

–       Prusik knots (Classic, Klemheist, French)

–       Overhand knot

–       Clove Hitch

–       Munter Hitch

4. Anchor System

·      Apply criteria for assessing sound anchoring systems, using EARNEST

·      Demonstrate setting up of static (isolated) and self-equalizing anchoring systems

·      Recognise setting up of anchoring system using various equipment such as ropes, slings and accessory cords.

5. Multi-Pitch Climb

·      Apply criteria for assessing sound anchoring systems using EARNEST@

·      Demonstrate setting up of static (isolated) and self-equalizing anchoring systems

·      Recognise setting up of anchoring system using various equipment such as ropes, slings and accessory cords

6. Abseiling and ascending

·      Demonstrate abseil with auto-block backup

·      Demonstrate ascending on fixed rope using prusik knots

·      Demonstrate counter-balance abseil in a single pitch

·      Demonstrate stack abseil in a single pitch

7. Understanding risk involving multi-pitch climbing

·       Recognise the hazards common to multi-pitch climbing

·       Describe the corresponding actions to avoid common hazards

·      Apply risk assessment and management framework of PEEP and 4Ts (Tolerate, Terminate, Treat, and Transfer) to address on-going risks

Instructor to Trainee Ratio

2 Instructors: 8 participants or 1 Instructor: 4 participants.

Note

Wearing of helmet is recommended when engaging in a lead climbing session


Will find some time to look for the APC syllabus another day. It’s somewhere and i have my own copy somewhere also. So if you need a copy of the syllabus, please feel free to take.

SMF, are you doing your job?

PSA : Revised SNCS Level 3 Ratio

Hi all,

I would just like to create awareness that there has been some changes in the SMF SNCS Level 3 Instructor to Participant ratio.

I contacted the SMF representatives to clarify on the ratio because it was brought up to my attention that the SEACF website states that a similar Sport Climbing Level 3 multi-pitch course offered has an Instructor to Participant ratio of 1:4 whereas the last SNCS Level 3 syllabus circulated to SMF Instructors states that it is 2:8. The SNCS Level 3 syllabus are not posted on the SMF website which led to my query to the SMF to clarify this misalignment. Because if the SMF is a member of the SEACF, who do we then follow? The parent organisation’s ratio or the local organisation’s ratio?

The SMF got back to me promptly on my query and they have since clarified that the ratio for SNCS Level 3 courses has been updated to 1 : 4. The initial ratio of 2 : 8 was used at the beginning of the Level 3 course implementation because there was a need to build in some checks and balances in the system to ensure that the course was conducted safely and correctly. They have since decided to revise it to 1:4 now. They also acknowledge that the SMF website has not been updated and they will update it promptly.

I would like to share this information with the SMF Instructor community to raise awareness that this revision has taken place in light of the lack of updates from the SMF. If there are any issues on the instructor ratio raised in future, please feel free to contact me and i can direct you to the relevant people in the SMF to clarify on this matter.

Regards
Adrian See